Prince Edward Island

By: Patricia Perry Maclean
Corner 2

Prince Edward Island Canada, what a mystical magic sound; it was one of those places that you have heard about, but never dreamed you would get the opportunity to see; but in the month of August 1982, a friend introduced me to Kenneth MacLean and I started to see him a couple of times a week, being single for two years and by the Labor Day week-end, he asked me would I like to go on a holiday for 3 days; to this very beautiful Island off Canada’s east coast, the land of the red dirt, and the high red capes that greeted us, as we came across the Northumberland straight on a ferry vessel that took us from New Brunswick, to” the Island “as the Prince Edward Island natives speak of it, as if; it was the only Island in the world, and as we were driving on the Island, in the direction to Summerside, the second largest city, on our way to West Point where Kens family lives, looked back to the trucks body to see how the motorcycle was traveling for Ken thought of a great way to show me the Island, on beautiful warm days, was to ride on his Honda gold wing; and take the trip from West Point to North Cape, stopping at all the fishing villages, and seeing all that the Island has to offer; such as: the potato fields, when we arrived in the month of September they are being harvested; with large farm equipment digging, below the green plant raising up the potatoes and then, are placed into a huge truck with a body on the back as to hold thousands of them at a time. Even growing up in Maine had never had a chance to see this Industry at work, because our potato fields were in Aroostook county, had always heard people speak, of being there; and how beautiful it was, when they blossom, but I was from Waldo county and then later in life moved to Kennebec county, I just never happen to get the opportunity to see the potato fields, as I was seeing them on the Island; riding on the back of the motor cycle, with out; all the structure of an automobile surrounding you; you seem to be able to take in a great deal more of the beauty of the landscape,  riding towards the fishing village, Howards Cove, at Cape Wolf; on  the Shore Road, the flat land reached out and touched the sea, some of it had fields of different types of flowers, like goldenrods, next; you would see the fields of daisy’s; also their would be a sectioned off, area of golden wheat, blowing softly in the wind and on the Island we would ride by the fields of potatoes, and this time of the year they had their blossoms, and because of the different kinds of potatoes, the blossoms would have different colors from field to field, I made a comment to Ken about the beautiful fields of all kinds of flowers and he replied that Prince Edward Island was often referred to as The Garden of the Gulf and the  West Point Side is on the Northumberland Straight where the Saint Lawrence river, coming down from the North of Canada flowing; into the Atlantic ocean, making the water so comfortable at 70 degrees to swim and play in the summer. Where the Maine coast is very cold water. Seeing the potato fields made me very curious when we went into the small town of O’Leary this was the town, when Ken was growing up, went to; every Saturday night; here they had the movie theater, for all the surrounding areas; the kids would come to look each other over, observe one another; get acquainted, for at that time they only had one room schools houses and there-for every three mile radius there would be a school.  I saw a sign that read Potato Museum, wondered what could you ever have a whole museum done on; just the potato, well little did I know; the Museum has an Amazing Potato Exhibit. Also a Potato Hall of Fame Display on Marketing, the Museum is full of pictures of people who lived and loved in the community of O’Leary. Dr.’s that served them and books they have written. Military pictures of the people that served World war 1 and 2, Telling all about the Fox industry, paintings and artifacts of there fishing Industry. History of O’Leary, The community owes its origin to the building of the P.E.I. railway which provided both land transportation and communication, the first building erected in O’Leary was the Station house .The first settlers arrived between 1880 and 1885. The Prince Edward Island Potato Museum, in 1992; was located on land that was donated by Dr.George and Jean Dewar, the museum displays the history of the potato and its value as an important cash crop. And so in the year 2001 Dr.George Dewar was inducted to Potato Hall of Fame. So by visiting the museum I did learn that you could create a whole museum on just a potato.

Ken and I continued our bike tour back to the Shore Road, for we wanted to follow the ocean as far as possible, of coarse; this is not difficult on the Island for the length of it, 150 miles long and 50 miles wide; O’Leary has the most distance from the ocean which is 12 miles, off the Shore Road, on RR2.  But we wanted to get back to the Shore Road and continue riding out in the fresh country air, there was much Ken wanted to share of his Island We came to a fishing village called Miminegash and after our tour of this fishing village and seeing the long harbour entrance to their mariner, which seemed to fascinate me, for most harbours;( as they spell it different then we do, in our country) such as just entering out of the ocean waters to three walls sectioned off, of a more sallow area; to keep the boats more secured and tied up to slips or to the side of the wharf, but Miminegash had a sea wall that ran very narrow, enough room for one boat at a time; if it was rough seas, or two boats, when the water was completely calm; just a high wooden wall and backed up on the ocean side with huge boulders which have to be brought from New Brunswick by a  big barge because there are no rocks to speak of on the Island. Taking pictures and swirling the camera around the area I picked up the strangest sight I had ever laid my eyes on, I saw a couple of fisherman, and the reason I knew they were; because they had on the traditional yellow rain gear, and they had driven into the beach area and followed a small road down around a cape, hanging out over the water; but on the back of there truck they were hauling a horse trailer, being crazy over horses; I called for Ken to follow me to the top of the cape for how could you ever imagine what were they  going to do, Ken caught up with me and explained,  when the wind blows hard here, the waves pick up a substance off the bottom of the water and rolls it forward towards the shore, and it is called Irish Moss; this is a perennial plant, it is an important commercially used seaweed, it contains a natural gum which is extracted to produce Carrageenan. It is a tasteless, non-caloric starch-like substance. Its primary use is in the dairy food industry (chocolate milk, milk shakes, milk puddings, whipped desserts, cottage cheese products, concentrated milk, coffee whiteners, etc.) It is also used in bakery products. As Ken and I was watching the fisherman back this beautiful palomino work horse off the back of the trailer, they harnessed him to what looked like some sort of a rake and then with a pair of long reins they marched the horse straight into the ocean water, well; being raised around horses all of my growing years, many times had swam my horse across the farm pond, but to watch them put this horse out to work in the Northumberland Straight, with the waves coming to the top of the horses body, my eyes were glued to the site, then suddenly the reins were pulled down from where the fisherman had them high over his head to down around the tops of his legs and then he moved back on to the shore with this long rake filled with what they call Irish Moss, the other fisherman had a large scoop, after the rake release its find, the scoop picked it up and put it into the back of the truck, all the time this was going on the waves were rolling in and fisherman and horse are getting splashed with water and I was so fascinated, how well the horse did his job; just if he were in  a field plowing or haying, I did hear a story about one horse that just lost control of himself for some reason, was spooked; by something and broke loose of his owner and just swam out until he drowned.  But other then that, they seemed to en-joy there work and they are very well taken care of, for this industry has done as well for the west and north part of the Island as the lobsters; Coming up out of the Miminegash Harbour and heading for Rt.14, but straight ahead my eyes caught sight of a Interpretive Centre and a restaurant, called Seaweed Pie Café; so we stopped, seeing how it was lunch time; and we never seem to miss a meal, time for a break. Found out, inside the Interpretive Centre that this little fishing village;( they claimed rights to this,) as the Irish Moss capital of the world; felt that I would benefit, if I took time to tour through, found out all about the Irish Moss valuable contribution, to not only the food industry; but the medical industry, the respiratory ailments, helping man made, over the counter pharmaceutical cough and flu remedies; including sore throats, bronchitis and pneumonia, there were reports that indicate Irish Moss exhibited activity against tuberculosis. Though the restaurant was opened in 1994, the Interpretive Centre had been in existence since the early 1980’s located in a fishing boat down by the harbour. Time took its toll on the retired old boat and began to deteriorate, not wanting to lose this valuable Centre; the community donated the schoolhouse as the new locale. After eating our lobster roll, yes we had to try the seaweed pie; to see actually what they were saying and found that Irish Moss is of particular importance because of the substance than can be extracted from it, by boiling the moss, carrageenan. This is a starch-like substance with no calories, taste, odor, or color, thus meaning that it can be added to a product with out altering its appearance or taste. Carrageenan used the world over in foods such as ice cream, chocolate milk, salad dressing, sherbet, flavorings, beer, and even in products such as insect repellents, water based paints, shampoos, toothpaste, or cosmetics. While it can be found in a plethora of products, about 90 percent of the carrageenan consumed is used by the dairy industry to thicken foods. What is interesting is that this leafy moss that saved thousands of Irish, from starvation during the potato famine; hence the name “Irish moss.” Only two places in the world have the Irish Moss growing in such a high concentration and that is on Prince Edward Island Canada and Cork Ireland, and is taken from P. I. to Rockland Maine to be processed by FMC, Inc. Suddenly Ken and I found ourselves full of food and full of knowledge and anxious to ride. Our destination was to motor cycle all the west coast of the Island, to North Cape and as we were approaching Skinners Pond, I began to notice that half of the, Shore Road was covered with a strange substance, so I asked Ken what is that laying on the highway and how come they can block half of the road, and in looking around can’t say as I saw any other traffic ahead or behind us, so why not, but you see I was beginning to see an other culture, just because it was nothing we could do in Maine, I questioned how this was possible, but they knew how much traffic would be going thru in September, over Labor Day week-end.  Ken replied; that’s Irish moss drying in the sun. Conversing with Ken found that after the fisherman take their find home, it either; has to be laid out on there lawn or drive way, to dry. And when there is not too much traffic they can place it on the highway.  So harvesting Irish moss is a family affair, which includes many long hours of gathering, drying and cleaning the moss before its ready for sale. But I can add that in the 20 years I have been going to P.E.I. with Ken to visit his family, our trips down the Shore Rd. all the way to North Cape the homes have changed from little farm houses, small old places of long ago to new modern homes and above average styles, its such a exciting ride; to look at these beautiful homesteads and the land, flowing to the open sea, so I could see what a difference it made to have an industry right there available to make a living, plus; they have an open season on  fishing for lobsters. Each side of the Island has a different time, of the year; that they put their lobster boats out and make a living with their lobster season.   The next township that came up said Norway, Ken spoke to me and said I have something very interesting to show you, so again he took some dirt roads and a very narrow path appeared and I held my breath as we made our way thru it, looking straight down from a very high cape into the ocean below and suddenly, he pulled over and parked the bike on the edge of a high cape and he lead me down a deep gorge and when we stepped out onto the beach, he pointed to the left and there before your eyes, the cape above where we had parked the bike; was a cape that had eroded into a full size elephant only five times bigger, it had everything that an elephant would have on its body except for a tail. It had the head with its trunk, four legs the very same size, on both sides, and a flat top, huge flat top many people at a time could sit up on, but it was about four floors high so needless to say could not get up there, for it had eroded behind it, away from the cape; what a phenomenon. It was perfect, but since then it has eroded even more and doesn’t have the full look to the elephant rock any more, but it held for many years and thousands of people came to view it, and it made; the brochures and visitors guides, manuals; also hard covered books explaining places to go and things to see all over the Island.  Once again we climbed aboard the gold-wing Honda bike and continued our trip to North Cape, which is located off Route 12 at the very northwestern tip of P.E.I., is a complex; which houses a gift shop, aquarium and interpretive centre where you can pick up a ribbon on a Tip to Tip promotion and receive a certificate at the opposite or eastern end of P.E.I. In this interpretive centre there is a wonderful restaurant and very special recipes, and in the center of this dinning room it has a raised level, so while you are having a delicious meal, you can be watching the troubled waters of Northumberland Straight and the Gulf of the St. Lawrence colliding against one of the continent’s longest natural rock reefs. As you approach the North Cape, you could see these wind mills in the distance as you come in closer they appeared to be much bigger then at first, the wind causes the blades that rotate the generator around, to make the electricity, there has been several more wind mills added thru the years; and in 2003, added the largest wind powered generator in North America, for twenty years the Atlantic Wind Test Site, located at North Cape, has been dedicated to the development of wind energy. This particular site is ideal for developing and evaluating wind energy systems and technologies. The Atlantic Wind Test Site is Canada’s only testing laboratory for wind energy.  When Ken and I came out of the restaurant, we rode the bike from the parking lot and headed to the capes over looking, where the tides meet and to see the North Cape Lighthouse, the lighthouse was constructed in 1866 and is considered one of the most important on P.E.I. warning ships off the two mile rock reef, and Carol Livingstone the P.E.I. Lighthouse Associations head spokes person told us that this lighthouse has the prettiest light shield in it, on the Island; they are an amber color with beveled panels on the sides; Carol knows every light house on the Island as if they were a part of her home, she represents them, traveling all over Canada; and also has come to our country to speak at seminars for our Lighthouse Associations on different issues, like saving the lighthouses.  As I stood there, taking in all the wonder around me, a small truck hauling a horse trailer worked its way to the beach area where the tides come together; he got parked; went out around to the back of the trailer unloaded the horse, harnessed him up, to the rack  (this one was a coal black work horse,) and marched him out into the ocean water, as I stood there and watch him work and was told that this Irish Moss that is harvested along the beaches of the North Shore by horse, is considered the best quality in the world. As I am standing thinking this must be the most, North East point in North America and trying to get my directions orientated, was told Labrador and Newfoundland, are off to the east; a car drives in our direction coming towards the capes and down where we were parked near the beach area, as we were watching, Ken laughingly said; that’s my son Steven and his wife Jill. I had never met this couple and although I had known he had 6 sons, this would be my first meeting with Steve and his wife and so far away from Maine, I suddenly realized this being a Labor Day weekend, that they were on holiday also; and Steve had come to visit with his grandparents, aunts and uncles, cousins and loads of relatives from Kens side of the family. After a visit with Steve and Jill, Ken said; why don’t we meet you at West Point at your grand parents farmhouse, and get together for dinner this evening.  Ken and I rode back to West Point that afternoon but took a different route. Along the eastern coast, remembered a fishing village not far from North Cape called Sea Cow Pond, and Ken mentioned, how they fished out of this harbour for blue fin tuna. As we continued on to Kildare Capes, he said this is the location of the story of the Yankee Gale, in 1851 the week-end October 3-5 that the Yankee Gale “ smashed ships and shore, along Prince Edward Island’s North coast. Regarded as one of the most destructive storms to hit Maritime Canada, a total of 90 American Schooners and 160 men were lost. Historians knew that 15 bodies came ashore at Kildare Capes and were buried in a mass grave nearby, they were not exactly sure where until a few years ago when grave –diggers discovered three bodies wrapped in sailcloth. Historians are convinced 12 other bodies are also buried there. A stone marking the location of the grave has been erected at the site. Then we rode on to a famous little village of Tignish and a beautiful afternoon ride until we returned to the MacLean homestead a lovely farmhouse, with 100 acres of land; that goes down a dirt lane all the way to the sea.   I don’t think we tried to swim that September day, although the weather was warm and the Northumberland water is very warm compared to the Maine ocean water that I was use to swimming in, and also they have beautiful warm falls, of the year; from September to late October his sister Leita and husband Edward stay in their beach home, because they love to walk the beach in the afternoon and evening; sometimes there fall of the year are warmer then we are, in Maine; you always can see P.E. I. on our weather map; when our television, is giving the forecast  and of coarse; I always watch for it as well to see what they are experiencing for weather, and although they are due east, perhaps a little more north, where the ocean surrounds them; they seem to have their own climate. So that evening we spent with Ken’s parents getting acquainted, Ken has red hair and so did both of his parents, and both his Mom and Dad were Scotch, I had to listen hard because they had a scotch brogue; such cultural heritage and congeniality, I was feeling as I conversed with these people, Russell MacLean, tall and slim had served in first and second world wars, Marie; mother of nine living children; And seven lived here on the Island, Ken and sister Alberta live in the states, so little by little, things came together for me, also found out that all their children, had red hair. Ken had told me that he had 2 brothers and 6 sisters and that they were all red heads. Now I thought that this was a big deal. I had one child born with red hair, but trust me these people were not so happy about this. Some of his sisters told me that they hated their hair growing up, that they were teased and tormented, remembered my son saying the same thing about his red hair; all his growing years, actually; people like the color but just have something to tease about, to just get something going and the red heads get tired of hearing it. Personally I always thought that they were special for it gives them more color. But here, there were red heads everywhere, children; grandchildren, parents and grandparents. West Point was having a community center gathering, with a group of people making up a band; understood their would be a fiddle or two, always guitars; also a banjo, and they mentioned that Kens youngest sister Elizabeth would be singing, and her daughter Cindy, a redhead. I was introduced to many members of the family and their friends, and what I remembered most of the evening, was the song that they sang and the title was Sea People, written by Allister  MacGillivray from Cape Breton, Nova Scotia.  It described the life of the Island people, and I could see for sure that these were sea people, and I needed to complement mother and daughter; how well their voices harmonized.

Sea People

 

Verse 1:

Sea People, they go down with their nets

To the shore they go down like their fathers before

And the sea seems to say

If you ride me today,

I will grant you the wealth of my store.

Chorus:

Sea People, the pride of the land

Strong of the spirit and rough of the hand

Sea People, the waters command.

Verse 2:

From the rocky old steed of the strands

As the waves rise to tumble and fall

In the face of a wild summer squall

All the traps have been cast and courses held fast,

As they brave through the worst of it all.

Chorus:

Sea People, the pride of the land

Strong of the spirit and rough of the hand

Sea People, the waters command.

Verse 3:

If you walk the cold beaches alone,

As the first light of morning is born

All adrift on the haze

Where the white seagull plays,

Catch a glimpse on the foam of the Sea People.

Chorus:

Sea People, the pride of the land

Strong of the spirit and rough of the hand

Sea People, the waters command.

The community center is closed down now, 21 years later; but there were many happy functions and gatherings at this little old school house that was turned into a place to hold birthday party’s anniversary and wedding receptions, like when Ken and I were married in March of 1987 we decided to go to the Island for our honeymoon, and of coarse they surprised us with a reception, at the community center, now just to see a little different culture; here is a good place to show a different approach that I was fascinated with, Carol and Wayne’s 25th anniversary celebration in 1991, they held a surprise party , before they  sat down at the head table, that was all set up for them and the wedding party, when they were married;  immediately they were brought to the presents and chairs were arranged for the two of them, someone is assigned to bring them their gifts and this person takes the card that comes with the gift and a specific person that might volunteer, or might in joy reading out load, with an audience, reads the card; the verse and who it ‘s from, before the present is opened, such pains taking and consideration for others, in our culture, often the cards are not read at all by anyone, or read it to them selves and then they thank the giver, but many times I have seen this done and considered its because they take more time for one another, we seem to be in more of a rush, noticed at their funerals; there is a difference;  in the first place; they have the passing of someone announced on the radio for everywhere on the Island to hear, where we announce it in the newspaper of the town where it took place and where they grew up. Then the Dr.’s and nurses of that town take time to go to the funeral, anyone that might of come in to; any kind of contact, I think every citizen of an area; that didn’t have to be a good friend or a relative, they just take the time to show respect and give there condolences.  The culture is a little different in P.I. and you wouldn’t notice it on a weeks vacation, its like any other country; you have to spend some time with the people and live among them to ever pick it up. Prince Edward Island have a few different traditions because of there ethnic back ground, and the nationality being mostly Scotch and Irish, and the Acadian settlers, who named the Island, Ile St.Jean, but were deported in 1758 by the British, and they named the Island; St. John’s, it wasn’t until 1799 that it became known as Prince Edward Island, Canada’s “Cradle of the Confederation” which has hosted many events, from the historic Charlottetown Confederation” in 1864 to1997 opening of the longest bridge over ice-covered water in the world.  But the Scottish settlers arrived at Stanhope Cove in June 1770. A Captain John MacDonald was sent to colonize Stanhope, Captain John; was a proud and fearless Highland Scot whose temper and critical statements often created enemies. He was well educated and could speak seven languages and became the first Prime Minister; of the Island and persuaded P.E.I .to enter Confederation on July 1, 1873. Ken’s mother’s maiden name was MacDonald, and I was told that, Marie’s grandfather Willie MacDonald was the first, West Point lighthouse keeper for 50 years, from the year they built the light in 1874 until 1924.   Now that would make Carol MacLean Livingstone, Willie’s great granddaughter, but in a way Carol became, a lighthouse keeper of the West Light house 110 years later; and this is how it came about. The West Point Lighthouse, was owned by the Canadian government and was run by the Canadian coast guard.

In the year 1983; the coast guard decided that they no longer needed the old lighthouse, for it was in need of a lot of upkeep and repairs, so they were going to tear it down and put up a steel structure, for the light to keep flashing and to guide ships around the reef. Carol and the people of West Point, had a public gathering, to save; there community land mark; together they formed a board of directors and worked it out with the Canadian government, that with a grant; they could save the lighthouse and make it into a place that would create jobs for the community by adding a motel with a licensed dining room; keep the original old light house structure for a museum and an Inn; where people can make reservations to sleep, therefore it did become the only Lighthouse Inn, in Canada; and because it earned the honor, was put on a Canadian stamp, in the year 1995. Carol was appointed the lighthouse manager, that’s why I said; a hundred years later, she became the lighthouse keeper, Carol gave up her job as a school teacher at Holland College and took on a full time position with her first love of work and hobby, here; was the opportunity to care for and make it into something to share; for anyone in the world to come and visit and eat from the menu; your choice of lobster, scallops, P.E.I. famous mussels, steak, or there Lighthouse chowder. I found a secret recipe in the lighthouse, I began to talk a lot about and finally one of Ken’s redheaded Sister Elizabeth gave it to me (she is one of the cooks in the restaurant) and said it was their mother, Marie’s potato salad recipe.  It was a secret recipe and for me not to share it, but my family in Maine loved it also, so; of coarse I gave it out, but after all that’s a long way from this special Island far off the East coast of Maine. The Lighthouse sits, on a beautiful beach and you can swim with soft sand under your feet and in the evening walk the beach, in the moon light, up behind the beach and lighthouse is a forest and they made, what they have called; fairy trails all through the thicket of trees where little rabbits are seen hopping and eating around the paths and under brush, and they enhance; the charm of the trails for sure. One warm summer day Carol, her grandson Caleb, and I were walking a trail and came upon a large strange looking hole in the ground and she preceded to tell us a ghost story about Captain the Kid, the notorious pirate; came ashore and hid his gold on this trail and people have dug for this treasure from the 1800’s to as recent as the 1970’s they would plot out an area and stage it off and dig but its never has been found, Carol loves to tell ghost stories and evenings she would stay at her light house and talk with the guest that have come from all over the world, Carol would spin tales and keep children happy while telling stories of sea serpents and of seeing the burning ship, I have been going to P.E.I. for 21 years now and although we often stay up very late, looking clear across; to the lights of Richibuctou, New Brunswick I never got the opportunity to see the famous ghost ship that looks like it is on fire and I was told you also can see people aboard this, but as long as I continue to go back I will be watching, but do have to mention, I have seen some very different sights, sitting on the Northumberland Straight, that have not been explained. Carol would sleep at her lighthouse and stay up, as late as it took for all the guest to settle down for the night before locking the door and many times, people wanted to stay up and visit, and she would share all about the Island, and therefore people would return another year and ask for Carol, she always took time to tour people through the light house and explain about every individual piece of antiques that they had on display, where it originated from, who had it so many years, from an Indian cradle to an old organ that had been in her family, Carol became very famous and well none, in teaching of her folklore; some would request that Carol and Wayne stand up with them as they got married in the Lighthouse, they could have been from Sweden, Germany or Japan speaking of Japan. Perhaps the most unexpected tourists to the Island are the Japanese who flock to Cavendish to visit a recreated home of a Canadian girl who never existed, and to examine objects she might of used, had she been a real girl. Many Japanese women between the ages of seventeen and twenty-four break into tears when they first enter Ann’s “home”. Some Japanese tourists offer money to Island girls for a lock of their red hair. I read; when a Japanese travel magazine asked its readers, what location they would most like to visit, Prince Edward Island ranked fourth behind New York, Paris and London. In 1996, over 25,000 Japanese tourists visited the Island. The Japanese attraction to Anne of Green Gables may be attributed to the universal appeal of Montgomery’s novels, the situation in Japan at the end of the Second World War when Anne of Green Gables was first translated into Japanese and the cultural “fit” between Japanese beliefs and the values expressed in Montgomery’s novels. Maud Montgomery wrote her first novel Anne of Green Gables in 1908 and became an immediate international success. Montgomery married   Reverend Erwin Macdonald and moved to Ontario. There despite the demanding duties of being a minister’s wife and the mother of two sons, Montgomery published another nineteen novels. When Montgomery died in1942, she was buried in Cavendish. Tourism flourished in the 1950s and 1960s as people began to have more leisure time and the money to travel. The red soil, green fields and beautiful blue ocean of the Island offer a panorama of beautiful scenic contrasts and vacationers are attracted by the warm sandy beaches. The national park on the north shore in Cavendish is second in popularity only to Banff National Park in Alberta. Its 40 kilometers (25 miles) of scenic coastline include spectacular sand dunes, sandstone cliffs, freshwater ponds, salt marshes and woodlands. This is the area of the Island immortalized in Lucy Maud Montgomery’s book, Anne of Green Gables. Cavendish is approximately 25 miles from the beautiful town called Summerside, this town is second in size only to Charlottetown; owed its growth to shipbuilding, the timber to build ships or to export was usually cut in winter and hauled out of the woods by teams of horses or oxen. Some farmers earned extra money in the winters this way.  Shipbuilding began with the approach of spring, and the Island shipyards came alive with the sound of axes thudding into wood. The vessels’ keels and frames were made mainly from hardwood trees; juniper and spruce were used for planking the frames and the decks; pine made the best masks and spars Saws ripped timber into planks, and the planks from the hulls were then placed in steam boxes to soften. Shipwrights, carpenters, sail makers, chandlers, blacksmiths, riggers and spar makers were needed for the construction of a sound vessel. Shipbuilding encouraged the growth of these occupations, which in turn brought prosperity to the nearby villages.

Summerside also had an air port, When Prime Minister W.L.M.King agreed to take part in the British Commonwealth Air training program for Allied pilots, Canada had to select suitable sites, Fortunately for P.E. I., Canada’s minister of defense, R.L. Ralston, had lost his bid for election in 1935. In desperation, Ralston persuaded the Prince County Liberal Association to allow him to run there in a by-election. The victorious Ralston rewarded his adopted constituency with military bases at Mount Pleasant, Wellington and St. Eleanors, which created immediate prosperity in Prince County. The Mount Pleasant base became an air-gunnery school, where the men, would practice shooting ink-colored bullets at a white silk target pulled behind an aircraft. The British pilots were send here to train also because of P.I., not having to deal with fog, it made a perfect training base, like Britain; is none for the amount of fog they have; and they could practice their war maneuvers of hedgehopping; very low over the Northumberland Straight, that the Lighthouse keeper Benny McIssac would report, that; at the top of the Light he had to look down on the plane, and during, world war two; the beacon at the West Point lighthouse had to be working for the airplanes that flew in and out of P.I., even though the straight would be frozen over and the ships no longer would need it.   Ken said his grandmother MacDonald would be out in her garden working and would lift her rack to wave at them, and could look right at the pilot for they flew so low. The history of flying in Prince Edward Island began in 1912, when a young Cuban pilot flew a homemade plane over the Exhibition Grounds in Chalottetown. But it was not until 1941, when Carl Burke founded Maritime Central Airways, that Prince Edward Island became important in the aviation history of Canada. In 1939, after earning his commercial pilot’s license, Carl Burke became a pilot with Canadian Airways. During the Second World War, he flew planes from Canada to England. In 1963, when Carl Burke sold the airlines to Eastern Provincial Airways, M.C.A. had become Canada’s largest independent cargo airline. The St. Eleanors base, in Summerside; which served as a flying school and later as a reconnaissance school, remained after the war and quickly assumed a vital economic role in the area. Local Summerside merchants found a ready market for their goods at the base, and civilians secured employment there. With considerable local and provincial assistance, an aircraft manufacturing plant and other business moved to the former air base. In response to public pressure over the decision to close the base, the federal government established a Goods and Services Tax (GST) branch in Summerside. The lovely seaside town, has a few, must see, places; one is a new Atlantic super store; it would be very hard to describe it is so elaborate, with paintings on the walls, 2 floors high; to coordinate with their displays, of types of foods you are shopping for; the only other place we have found one of its kind, is in; St Stevens across the border of Calais Maine. In the year 1995 The School of Piping, was created, people have come from all over Canada, learn or progress further with it, and many come from the States; this is located in Summerside, and is very successful.  The boardwalk on the water front is named Spinnakers Landing, has little shops and the Wyatt Theatre for performing Celtic dancing, and Gaelic music, Ken and I have been to the theatre for several different occasions. One I remember and will never forget was the performance of the Coal Miners (The Men of the Deep) they entered on the stage of a choir of 50 men, and sang with no lights, in the theater; but for the lights on their hats. In the harbour of Summerside yachts, of rich and famous have been spotted; from new bike and joggers paths, lined with flowers; to the special newly made park, Ken said; when he was a boy during the second world war; Summerside had shoulder to shoulder, people walking the side walks, but now it’s a different look; but it has much to offer a tourist. Leaving Summerside on Rt.2 heading for West Point, often instead of going to O’Leary, we take a left turn at Carleton and follow Lady Slipper Drive to Coleman.  This tiny town has a post office but no store. Suddenly on the right is the Free Church of Scotland, built by Amos MacLean and on the top of the steeple the spire has a symbol in the shape of the Scottish Thistle. In the community at the Brae, you come to a second church built by Amos MacLean, built as a Presbyterian Church is now a United Church .A large modern tomb stone in a quaint cemetery behind the church commemorates John and Jannet MacLean, Kenneth’s great grandfather and grandmother. The Reading on this modern memorial stone, says he’s the patriarch of the Presbyterian Church in the Brae. Beside the new stone is another, which has the ancient metal symbol of the Scottish thistle.  It was standing very tall and erect, making a strong statement of exactly who were the first people to come and settle the area around the Brae, and the small black polished mirrored stone on the ground in front of the thistle read Laughlin MacLean and his wife Mary Moreshed. The third church Amos MacLean built is the Immaculate Conception Church, the Roman Catholic Church in the Brae, in a picturesque setting that’s located in an ocean front, where they; at one time, built ships.  So of course I would have to take pictures of this setting.  Many of these churches have a background of the ocean and the breathtaking landscape.

 

Soon you will come to West Point where you can follow the signs to the Marina; you will see a new million dollar building that was built, in 2002 and took the place of the little old school house; that was turned into the community hall, where our wedding reception was held in 1987, the new building is called The Harbourside Centre, this was constructed with many purposes to fulfill, the Marina not only has a harbour for their fishing and lobster boats but had a wharf made, in a designated area for pleasure boats, that are now coming into the West Point from other villages of P.I. also from Richibuctou, and Miramichi  New Brunswick and down from the St. Lawrence River, if they want to pull in; and stay for a day or two; and make a visit and meet the West Point People. This is one of the reasons The Harbourside Center was constructed, to comply with the community with a small grocery store and for these visitors they installed showers, a utility room with washer and dryer facilities to use.  There is a big community hall, for all the functions they have, and there are many for an emergency; something very serious happens in the community, they all get together for a pot luck dinner, have a fund raisers; donations, all coming together for one another, they have many dinner and dancing celebrations, like the West Point Lighthouse Days. And on the third floor of the Centre is an efficiency apartment for any one that would like to stay, and en-joy the harbour perhaps for a honeymoon suite. One day at home in Maine, on a Sunday morning, I remember, probably in 1998 we were watching the travel channel on the television, when they announced they had been to Prince Edward Island and had gone to West Point and visited with the people when all of a sudden on the television they show Carol and Wayne, they talk with Carol about the community, and then they showed segments of her telling stories to children, and of her, touring the filming grew and the spokes person or interviewer; through part of the lighthouse, and she was telling about the old living quarters turned into two separate, guest rooms; and here was where she told of how the light house has a ghost, and in the year 1955; AnnieLou, said it was the fall of the year, when they were digging for potatoes, when Benny MacIsaac the Lighthouse keeper, became very ill and was put in the hospital for a week, there-for, the son George MacIsaac and his wife, were asked to take his place. AnnieLou being a school teacher and George a carpenter, worked days; but the light did not need anyone to tend it, until the dark of the night; to guide the ships around the reef, so it worked well for the two of them to go, to the lighthouse to get settled down for the night’ George would go up to the light and clean the wick, clean the reflectors and the kerosene for the light would have to be pulled up on the dumb waiter; and hand crank the weights to the top, to keep the light rotating; now, at 1pm he would have to go back to the top of the lighthouse again, Benny had his sleeping quarters on the first floor, and had a routine when he would go up to the light and crank the weights to make sure it worked through the night. But George was afraid of not waking, for that second return, to the top; so he wanted to sleep further up to be closer to the light, so they settled in on the second floor, (this is where Carol was displaying the two new renovated bedrooms) and their story goes, sometime in the night, every night that they were there; they heard footsteps on the stairs all the way up to the light, it was so chilling and frightening in the dark of the night, in a cold damp wood structure, trying to be brave to help the light keeper out, asked; who do you think it was; and they replied,  Lighthouse Willie, which was Kens and Carols great grandfather; the first lighthouse keeper, who kept the light for 50 years. Is his spirit still working and climbing the same old staircase going from his living quarters on the first floor all the way up to the light that needs to be tended and cared for, and to make sure the beacon, lights the way and the ships stay clear of the reef, and she left us hanging in thought, with goose bumps. Then she moved on into another room made into an honeymoon suite where in renovating, they did a charming elaborate room, with a canopy up over the top of the bed with matching curtains on the two, 130 year old windows with thick alcoves with a ledge of about 2 feet, and a joining bathroom done up with frills and flowers, so intriguing. Then they moved on up to the top of the light, where you can go out onto a balcony and walk all the way around the structure and see the landscape at least 6 floors high. Then the tour took them to the new Restaurant and the motel rooms built above, in the year 1985 and because of saving the old lighthouse, people get to sleep in the lighthouse Inn, the only one in Canada. Then on came Wayne taking them down to the Harbour and showing off where they kept there fishing vessels, takes them aboard his, lobster boat, named the Tammy C. after his daughter; and has a lobster on top of a lobster trap and is showing how to hypnotize the lobster by standing him on his head and rub him on his back, this will put him to sleep, then they went on to demonstrate how to haul lobster traps up from the ocean floor; and then taking them for a ride on his boat in the Northumberland Straight. It was on for 15 minutes before they took you to another part of the country of Canada. Well we were pretty excited and the phone started ringing and my son Brent, who lives in Atlanta Georgia, had seen it and needed us to be sure and tune in to it, more calls came in, relatives from my hometown, they happened to be watching the Travel Channel that morning.  So have to say, this little Island has a lot of charisma.  That calls you back and back.

Too the only Island in the world.  Prince Edward Island, Canada.